Posted by: lavernewaddington | August 16, 2024

Backstrap Weaving – Bye-bye Traddy

I used left-over scraps of that wheel-spun wool along with some of the wool I used for my Navajo-style weaving in natural dye experiments in Chile. They were wrapped around rolls of paper and coiled into what you see here which I used as the lid for a basket.

I am a “cheap spindler” in much the same way as I am a cheap drunk…it doesn’t take much to make me happy! Don’t waste the good wine on me. I do not have a refined palate. So, it is little wonder that I am content to use my humble Cusco drop spindle when I get the urge to spin. I just don’t have a refined palate for spinning tools.

The Cusco spindle was the second one I ever got, the first being from San Pedro de Atacama in northern Chile. The Cusco one that I got in 1996, being more robust, became my constant travel companion. It was practical. Although I have collected many more spindles on my weaving safaris since then, this Cusco one is the one I always use while the others hang on the wall behind the sofa as souvenirs of places I have been and people I have met.

The spindle I got in Cusco in 1996.
Some of the whorls from the spindles on the wall fell down behind the sofa only to be retrieved later when a friend helped me move it. Here are three that I found there among the cat toys. It’s so interesting seeing the various styles of whorl.

The very first spinning that I did for weaving on my backstrap loom was with some extremely dry, brittle, and filthy llama fiber that I had bought from a farmer while wandering about the back roads of Uyuni in the Bolivian highlands. I cleaned and prepared it. The dust and dirt would have me wheezing and my skin would crawl and eyes run every time I opened the bags to get more. It made for good spinning training. I gave the fiber a tremendous amount of twist because at that time I believed that this was the only way hand-spun yarn could possibly stand up to the abrasion of warp-faced weaving. I have since learned that this is not so. That kind of yarn produces durable, hard wearing cloth and in a tight warp-faced weave can make a garment highly water-resistant. Of course, that isn’t always the kind of cloth I want.

The natural colors of the llama I spun. I was always amazed at how nice it looked when woven. Warp-faced structures are very forgiving in that way.
When I was given a large bag of spearmint leaves by a friend, I decided to use it it to dye some of the llama yarn. One batch gave me a nice neutral taupe color. The second lot my friend gave me produced green. I also had some cochineal for red.
I was able to buy a lovely fine commercial yarn in Chile that was a blend of alpaca and wool and came in earthy colors. I would use my drop spindle to add extra twist as, again, I’d thought that yarn for warp-faced weaving simply must have that tightly spun characteristic. The green in this band I wove with this yarn is actually cotton.
The first time I was given prepared alpaca to spin by my friend Janet, I decided that I simply couldn’t put all that heavy amount of twist into that beautiful fiber. With a bit of extra care in the way I handled it on my backstrap loom, it made lovely warp. The yarn was quite balanced and didn’t kink up on itself.
You can see that this alpaca yarn that I spun lies flat and relaxed when not under tension.
You can see how my teacher Maxima’s handspun wool yarn behaves when not under tension. All the energy from the twist causes the warp lying on the ground to tightly spiral. The yarn will produce hard-wearing cloth.

I really enjoy reading the online group forums about spinners and their spindles. The participants’ love and enthusiasm for their tools is wonderful….I totally get it but I just don’t share it. Some of the spindles they show are beautiful pieces of craftsmanship and I love seeing them. But when it comes down to it, I just want to get the job done. If you like your tools to be uniquely hand-carved pieces of art, take a look at Allen Berry’s work on Instagram (allenrberry). All his fiber tools are amazing.

It seems that when it comes to spinning I am totally product oriented which is kind of strange as it is quite the opposite when I weave.  I just want to get this stuff done so I can go weave with it. In weaving I am all about enjoying the process. I probably would not have been willing to devote any great amount of time to spinning if not for the pandemic. The combination of needing to keep my hands busy during Zoom sessions as well as a dwindling stash had me happily spinning up all the wool I could find in my closet.

Weaving a small tubular band as a test for my handspun wool yarn to see if a) it would be suitable for my warp-faced weaving and b) if there was enough contrast between the three colors for use in a three-color pebble project.
The warp for a three-color pebble project with my handspun “pandemic” wool in purple, pale yellow and a rust.

And then I took on a new adventure…spinning cotton. As with my favored Cusco spindle for wool, I have taken the takli that Elizabeth gave me in Australia as my one and only tool for cotton. It is all I feel the need for right now. It makes for quiet, comfortable, and fuss-free Zoom spinning.

My first lot of Sea Island cotton and the gifted takli spindle. I was pleased with this first attempt but hadn’t known at the time that Sea Island cotton has a longer staple length than other varieties and is therefore easier to spin.

My collection of spindles that I have gathered in my travels includes a few that are used for cotton. Here are two from Guatemala and one that I bought from my Guaraní teacher here in Santa Cruz. The whorl on that one is a piece cut from the sole of a sandal.

Two spindles from Guatemala flank the Guaraní one.
Workshop spindle.
I love the way we are all so focused on our teacher’s demonstration. As it turned out, she is left-handed and we were all righties. She got us all started one by one turning the spindle in one direction and we then proceeded to unspin what she had started for us!
Moving on here to Upland cotton.
The color called Mahogany in the center after being boiled. The pre-boil color is below to the right.

And of course, there is the horizontally-held spindle for cotton spinning that is used by my teachers in coastal Ecuador.

The cotton is draped on a wooden stand called the “rueca” for spinning. It has a notch cut into its top which grabs the cotton and allows the spinner to draw out the fibers under tension. A small basket is woven from plantain fiber underneath on which the spindle sits when not in use. This is a miniature version of the rueca which I made with my teachers’ help so that I could take an example back with me to Bolivia. I need to place something in the little basket to weigh it down because it is so small and light. The typical spindle can be seen at right with its wooden whorl. More often now you will see people using yo-yo halves and metal wheels as whorls.

Here are some tiny whorls from coastal Ecuador that the family had found while ploughing their fields. There were close to forty of them sitting in a bowl on a shelf, just like that.

My very first experience with spinning cotton had been in coastal Ecuador where I got to work almost from scratch, de-seeding, teasing apart, and fluffing up the cotton. It was difficult spinning it on the horizontally-held spindles compared to what I do now with the takli. Unfortunately, I didn’t spend much time on it while there, being much more interested in the weaving part of the process. My teachers already had plenty of spun singles that they doubled for warp so that I could learn how they weave their double-pocket saddle bags and hammocks. We would pass time in the evenings on cotton preparation.

My first attempts with the horizontally-held spindle in Ecuador with my teacher Trini and her mother Luz (rip).

I put in a little practice when I got back home but the loom soon called me away…

My cat got to the point eventually where she paid no attention to my fiber-y pursuits.

I may have never gone back to cotton if not for the pandemic. The loom was always pulling me one way yet my stash of gifted sliver in the closet was growing. Thank you to all those, especially Betty, who were so kind with their gifts when I was visiting in the States.

I have woven with my singles thread. It was an even freakier experience than the first time weaving with my handspun llama yarn all those years ago.I was surprised to see how well it tolerated the string heddles and the close sett on my backstrap loom.

I love the look of all these handspun cotton singles lined up on my backstrap loom.

I’ve used it in plain weave for ikat pieces as well as for pieces decorated with pick-up patterns that I’ve used in small purse and wallet projects.

Wallet project with pick-up patterning in the structure that I call Andean Pebble Weave.

Right now I’m spinning some more brown sliver that I just uncovered in the closet. I’ve yet to use the brown in a project.

Ikat projects in my handspun cotton singles. The lower one uses some of the natural green cotton in both its boiled and not-boiled versions. Most of what you see there is the not-boiled green.

No doubt when I return to Australia I’ll have lots of access to sheep fleeces and will wonder about my Traddy and how it’s being used on this side of the world. I won’t be buying another wheel though, and will slowly work my way through, as is my habit, with my drop spindle. I won’t be displaying my other spindles on the wall either and that might lead me to picking up one of the others for a spin and giving the Cusco one a rest.

See you all next time…


Responses

  1. fiberassociations's avatar

    Laverne, wonderful post as usual. So many years of dedication to the craft, so well written.

    I’m not much of a shopper, but I am going on an ATA tour to the Sacred Valley in October and you’ve convinced me that Cusco spindle is something I’ll have to find.

    Saludos

    Kate

    • lavernewaddington's avatar

      Thank you, Kate. That tour will be wonderful. Just go to the everyday feria in Cusco city and you’ll find people selling spindles. That’s where I got mine and I took DY Begay there to get one when we were there in 2010.

  2. Virginia's avatar

    I love the way you have documented all your adventures with fiber I’ve spent the last couple of weeks trying to ply up some odd bobbins of singles that I created when I first started spinning. I’ve tried a drop spindle but only mastered the drop part. These early singles were super fine and not very tightly spun. So at the suggestion of my friend Ruth Greenspan – who’s a master spinner – I tried making cabled yarn – ( https://spinoffmagazine.com/kate-larsons-tips-spin-cabled-yarn/) It was an adventure but a perfect solution for my not very perfect yarn. But I should have taken photos along the way like you do. That would have made the learning process so much better – and increased the possibility that I could repeat it. Thanks again for sharing your adventures. un fuerte abrazo – Virginia

    • lavernewaddington's avatar

      Thanks, Virginia. You’re lucky that you all have Ruth right there with you if you need to brush up on the cabling. That does sound like a very good solution and so nice that you get to use the product of your first spinning.

      As for the drop spindle, I found a nice way to learn is to stand beside a friend who’s sitting on the sofa. They spin the spindle while you draft and control the movement of the twist. Once you have that part working well, you can try spinning the spindle on your own.

      • Virginia's avatar

        I wish I were going on the tour with Kate, but one of the ATA board members, Ercil, is a good drop spindle spinner and we have our retreat next month – maybe I can sit next to her on the sofa in the evenings to learn how to use a drop spindle. I have a couple of drop spindles that I picked up along the way – no idea of quality – but for starters they’ll do. Thanks for the motivation.

  3. Elizabeth Woods's avatar

    Dear Laverne,

    It is wonderful to hear of your spinning and wheel and spindle adventures. I wonder if the wheel made its way to the Falklands with a NZ volunteer-abroad teacher.
    I am so glad you still spin with your tahkli, I have plenty of cotton here for you in Australia when you move. I fondly remember the last workshop I did with you. I need to spin cotton to weave now. I am definitely going to need a refresher workshop!

    • lavernewaddington's avatar

      Hi Elizabeth. It’s so nice to hear from you. I must check in with my friend Emerald and see how she’s getting on with the cotton I got from you. Yes, I’ll be wanting some for myself when I get there and it would be great if we could have another weaving get together some time.

  4. Alice Banks's avatar

    dear Laverne

    my trad Ashford wheel was purchased from the Falkland Isle Wool co when they had a stand at a stitch and knit show in Edinburgh ( Scotland) about 37 years go. A short lesson nd a bag of beautiful Falkland wool and off I went.

    That wheel is still used almost daily and I still have the sweater the wool turned into.

    • lavernewaddington's avatar

      Thanks for letting me know. That’s a great story. It’s a shame I didn’t get any wool myself when I had my connections there. Strangely, it never occurred to me. But at least I had the fleece from the Patagonian sheep. I know that the wheel would get used if I could have it in Australia but it just can’t be, sadly, and my budget won’t stretch to getting one over there. So, drop spindle it will be!

  5. Jen's avatar

    Laverne, as always you inspire me, all that you have done and continue to do. I also have an Ashford Traditional Spinning Wheel, and find that for most of the time I’ve owned it, it has become a decoration, which in itself is okay, as it looks lovely.

    Your spinning and weaving has captivated me for years, and I recall last year about this time I warped my first backstrap project, and instantly became confused, I didn’t even understand weaving enough to realize it is a warp-faced weave, and I was asking you all sorts of questions about how to make it more balance, and yardage in warping; you were so very generous with your help, and I bought your books and pdfs to try to understand, but I didn’t get very far with that. Instead later in summer of 2023 I bought a rigid heddle loom, and then another, and then finally a rather large Ashford table loom. Let me say that in the last year I’ve come to better understand basic weaving structure, and these looms have allowed me to practice balanced plain weave, which is not easy to attain still with the right equipment.

    Presently I would like to do some more spinning like you have done, and I am a person who somehow got all the equipment, but what I don’t have, is time, or better said, ability to delegate my time. So, this brings me to ask the most important question, as we readers of your blog see so much of your finished as well as in-progress works, that I at least think your super-power must be in goal-setting short term and long term. How do you get it all done? Do you write in a planner and have a calendar so-to-speak of what you are going to do in a slot of time on a given day, or, do you manage to float through your days just naturally super productive while not particularly having a plan?

    Thanks again,

    Jen

    • lavernewaddington's avatar

      Hi Jen. I’m really glad that you got a rigid heddle and table loom to get your first taste of weaving. I cringe sometimes when I see people recommending that someone tries a backstrap loom to see if they like weaving before spending money on other kinds of looms. It’s not an easy way to start from scratch and can sometimes put people off weaving altogether.

      Getting into using a backstrap loom will be so much easier for you now. I hope it all goes to plan.

      As for my time management, I’m very much about designating certain times of day to certain tasks and am big on giving myself rewards. If there are unpleasant or tedious things to be done, they’ll happen in the morning and then I’ll reward myself with weaving time after lunch. I do a cooked lunch every day as my main meal and spend some time over eating and maybe enjoying a tv show. That really divides the day nicely and then I’m set to weave.
      I also make a point of starting to think about and plan my next project before I’ve finished the current one and I try not to start something new right after lunch….like winding a warp. I’ll do that last thing in the day so that the warp is ready to go on the loom the next day and I can get straight to work.

      Thanks for your nice comments about my work and it’s really nice to hear from you.

      • Jen's avatar

        Thank you as usual for your thorough reply! I agree; I think these days the best loom for beginners is a rigid heddle, and after understanding balanced weave should one try warp faced or even weft faced. That is in a world where everything is available, I’m sure in these cultures that weave backstrap, it is the only option, so who cares about balanced weave, etc. I will try to better plan my weaving schedule and am inspired by your commitment!

  6. Jen's avatar

    ps. Oh, forgot to say: Now that I better understand warp-faced weaving, I want to warp up another backstrap loom project, Lavern style, as I have several pdf’s and books on the subject! 🙂


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