Backstrap Weaving – Seasons

I wove this with handspun cotton singles that I’d bought in Guatemala back in 2008. I used my bamboo reed to achieve the sheer open look and used the same cotton as supplementary weft to weave in patterns. It’s a style that I had been wanting to try ever since I bought a sample from the Coban area of Guatemala.
While I love spinning with a drop spindle, I can’t say the same for plying. I find it downright tedious and I just wanted the task to finish. I’d ply at my craft group gatherings, on the train, at the Arts Society gatherings, at the spinning and weaving group….it just seemed to go on and on.
I managed to squeeze in some time at the loom between hiking trips. It took two attempts to wind a warp to my liking from all those fabulous natural dye colors but I had to face the fact that I just wouldn’t be able to get them all into the one piece.
Four seasons motifs in progress. The heddle arrangement may look awkward but it works well. I had seen weavers in Bolivia use similar arrangements for their double weave pieces.
The figures as well as the colors are meant to represent the four seasons. The yarn I had dyed with cochineal just didn’t belong here. It can wait along with the greens for another project.
I didn’t want to use the handspun wool as weft for either of these pieces and used instead some unidentified soft and very loosely spun ”stuff’ that a friend had given me. It worked well except for the fact that it was somewhat slippery and wanted every now and then to slip out of the shed at the edges rather than lie there snugly. I’d had that very same experience with luscious alpaca yarn that I’d spun once upon a time.
The two faces.
I somehow always find myself on the floor at the planning stage. I didn’t have a choice in Bolivia but I’m in a bigger place now with table space. I still end up on the floor.
I’m in a couple of hiking groups and get to go out at least twice a week.
The “real” project will be much wider than this.
I couldn’t believe that after having admired the Indonesian ikat textiles for so many years, particularly the ones from Sumba, that I should run across these in an op shop?!
This photo was taken after one week. It has developed even further since.

Backstrap Weaving – My Books!

If you’ve purchased the PDFs that come with supplemental video clips, you don’t need to do anything either. You will continue to have access to the videos by clicking on the link to the folder of clps that you’ll find in the chapter titled Videos. Access to the clips will continue after the Taproot Video website closes.

ACTION NEEDED FOR THE FOLLOWING:

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This a celebration of connections made in what I’ve left behind and where I now find myself. The images depict the four seasons considering that now that I live in a place that truly experiences all four. We had two at best in my tropical home in Bolivia! I’m going to make this into a bag so I can carry those connected memories with me.

Bye-bye Taproot Video and thank you.. Thank you to all those who have purchased my publications over the years and supported me through following my blog as well as leaving me kind comments and reviews here and on my other social media pages.The blog will continue. I have a lot saved up to post! You’ll be hearing again from me soon.

Backstrap Weaving – Dyeing to Weave

Trying to stir and poke more fabric into the pot.
On top of a stunning color, it gave such an intense aroma of eucalyptus. Beautiful!
The smell of the peppercorn leaves in the pot evoked a lot of memories.
Some results. You can see the indigo that we dyed up in the highlands last year. I added a natural white skein to this photo for comparison.
At last I get to keep some notes in the book with my handwoven cover.
I love these three together.
Playing with different color combinations. I have plans for this wool in my weaving but first I have to get out a spindle and ply. I’ve dyed skeins of doubled singles and have yet to twist the two single strands together. We’ll see how my wrist feels about that.
My two boxes of jewelry-making bits and pieces made it over to Australia. I spent ten days house-sitting for a friend at Shelly Beach and needed an activity.
While this strangling fig isn’t being very kind to this tree, it makes a very fascinating and eerie sight.
Other things that got refreshed and updated…my garabata pouch pendant and wrist cuff. I didn’t make the earrings. I bought those from an Ayoreo artisan.
It was never a good idea to wear jewelry in the streets of Santa Cruz. I learned that the hard way in a couple of incidents during my first months there. Anything was fair game. I’m enjoying being able to feel confident about wearing my things out and about here.
I based it mostly on silver dollar leaves.
There lies within my life’s possessions!
The brooch that I got in the Christmas exchange on the left…..and the result of another Christmas exchange in a different group on the right. In that exchange we were presented with materials and asked to stitch a Badge of Honor with a word that describes another person in the group. We drew names from a hat. I stitched Vivacious for Francie and Present was chosen for me.

Backstrap Weaving – Where is it?

The slooooow move back to Australia is presenting some problems. One of them could have been easily solved by simply making a list of things that I have taken over there so far. That would save me from having the annoying ”Where is it?” question occupying so much of my time.

For example, I can’t find the silk that I dyed with cochineal last year. I have a certain photography spot beneath the bedroom window and I remember removing from it the little zippered bag that holds all those silk cochineal-dyed balls of thread so that I could place an item to be photographed. Now where the heck did I put that zippered bag? If I can’t find it here, surely that means that I must have taken it to Australia. But that doesn’t make sense. I wanted all of my yarn stash to be here so that I have things to work on between trips to Australia.

Anyway, something good comes from combing through plastic bags and cupboards….you find other stuff. You get to say….”Ooooh, I’d forgotten all about you” and feel all warm and fuzzy with the memories that the unexpected item triggers.

The first example of this was the band woven from my own handspun llama fiber that I uncovered in the closet. That brought back memories of a trip to Bolivia’s amazing Uyuni salt lake way back in 2002. It was on that trip that I met a farmer who sold me bags of llama fiber. I was grateful to be able to take the fiber back with me to spin in the fiber-less tropical lowlands in which I live.

I wove a long band from the mill-spun wool singles yarn that you see in the photo, cut it in two and used it to flank the llama band. I joined the three pieces with the tiniest of seams and it has become the slip case for my pin loom. What can I say?…. I love to weave and anything that is not nailed down around here will eventually get its own woven pouch.

Here’s a look at just some of the black-and-white bags, pouches and slip cases that house all manner of things around my home. They showcase a variety of techniques. Top left is a two-color ikat with a little supplementary weft patterning at the bottom. Top right is a shoulder bag patterned in the intermesh structure with a little weft substitution at the bottom. Bottom left is a three-color ikat using my own handspun cotton. Bottom right is a laptop slip case patterned in a single-faced two-color warp-float structure.

I like that I can keep learning and practicing stitched shibori techniques and use the learning pieces to line my latest creations.

I never seem to decide on the lining until I have finished sewing the bag which means that I get a lot of practice installing drop-in linings. This third stitched shibori project taught me about the effect of different spacing in the stitches and now lines the llama-band bag.

Find Number Two: This was some cotton fabric that I had picked up from a give-away box at a guild meeting I had attended years ago. I had no plans to sew it into anything. I took it because I like to use fabric as backdrops for some of my photos and no one else seemed to to want it. This find gave me the idea of trying the stitched resist technique on print fabric rather than plain white. I gave the fabric a quick wash in hot water which was obviously not enough to truly scour it and make it ready-to-dye. This was just a sample and I wasn’t willing to go to too much trouble. It was okay for a quick experiment and I think this idea is worth pursuing. Ideally, I would have the surrounding print almost totally covered by the dark dye. I don’t know if that’s even possible but I will do some research and put more effort into the scouring next time.

Flower pattern idea for stitched shibori from the website of Townhill Studio where you’ll find lots of tips and tutorials.

Find Number Three: This was a ball of indigo-dyed reeled silk that a former English teaching colleague had brought back for me from Japan. Dear Sayuri (r.i.p) had totally surprised me with this thoughtful gift. She was about the only one among my many teaching colleagues here who showed any interest in what I do but even so, I had never expected her to bring back such a treasure for me. I remember that I had been initially disappointed because my fingers had been stained blue as I was winding the thread off the skein into a ball. I wasn’t sure how that would affect my weaving with it and that might be why I set it aside all those years ago.

I decided that it was time I did something with this gift. I wound some off into skeins and washed them over and over until all the blue had been released. The difference in color as it appears in the photo is subtle but is actually quite significant. I prefer the post-wash color. This silk and some pictures that I had seen of indigo-dyed clothing worn by Chinese minority groups gave me the idea to weave something using a motif that had a kind of eastern flavor. I set about designing one to be woven with supplementary weft.

I used several strands of two colors of silk on a base of 20/2 cotton for my sampling. I love how a backstrap loom allows me to whip up these small samples without wasting too much thread. It took a couple of attempts to get something I liked. That first one was wrong! I was happy with this and was just getting down to the number-crunching part of the preparation process (I like this part because I get to write in my weaving journal with its handwoven cover) when I got distracted by Find Number Four.

Many years ago, I had bought these two ply-split straps. They were made in Colombia by Wayuu artisans who generally use them as straps for their crocheted mochila bags. In this case, they were being sold online as guitar straps but did not come with any hardware. I had become fascinated with the mochila bags and the band weaving of the Wayuu people after buying Dutch weaver Mirja Wark’s book on the subjects back in 2011. My Dutch friend, Anna, (if you are long-time follower of my blog, you might remember “bicycle Anna”) had arranged to get this book from the Netherlands to me here in Bolivia. The following year, 2012, I actually had the opportunity to travel to the Netherlands and spend a day with Mirja Wark. You can see that my recent unearthing of these these two straps has also unearthed a whole string of lovely memories.

My friend Dorothy owns this Wayuu mochila bag with its ply-split strap.

I am usually pretty good at focusing on one weaving project at a time. I may take time out to spin some cotton, weave a pin-loom square or stitch some shibori cloth but once I have chosen a weaving project, I usually stick with it from start to finish. Not so this time. The “eastern” project has been set aside so that I can plan a bag around the darker of the two ply-split straps. I had the idea of using the strap as the sides and base of a plain black bag and weaving an ikat patterned outer pocket to complement the strap pattern.

Wrapping warp threads with tape to resist the first of the three dye colors.

And away we go. I planned a very simple ikat pattern to mimic the “M” shapes in the ply-split strap. I used 20/2 cotton. I have woven two ikat projects with this weight of cotton in the past. The first was the two-color drawstring bag that appeared in the photo near the start of this post. The second was this one in three colors….

These were the pieces that would help me make my calculations. In my latest project I would use four colors. I wrapped bundles of thread that were twice the size of those that I had used in the first two projects. That fact, together with the small spacing between the wrappings, meant that the dense bundles of threads emerging from the wrappings did not have much room in which to spread and evenly take up the dye all the way up to the very edges of the wraps. I spotted the problem after the first dye bath using the tan color but it was too late to fix. I didn’t want to throw it into a second tan bath because I figured it would darken the color too much. In the subsequent brown and black dye baths I worked on moving the threads (as much as I could with rubber-gloved fingers) so that the dye would penetrate all the way to the edge of the wrappings. Every project carries a lesson. I just have to make sure that I add that to my notes….don’t make the bundles too thick if the wrappings are going to be placed close together.

The completed pocket fabric. The tan areas have little fringes of white due to the problem mentioned above.

Sides and base of bag….done. Outer pocket…mostly done. I am deciding on whether it needs a zip. I am going to scrape together thread to dye black for the body of the bag (remember that I’m trying to work solely from stash and so that will mean over-dyeing some colors black). I know from past experience that I’ll most likely end up with various intensities of black color as a result but that could be interesting. As for the shape of the bag…that’s yet to be decided. I wonder if I can actually figure out the lining this time before I sew the bag.

I still haven’t found the cochineal-dyed silk. But I am sufficiently distracted now. It will no doubt turn up when and where I least expect it to. Looking for it has resulted in some beautiful memory trips, though!

Backstrap Weaving – Sifting through Stash

I have mentioned before that I am trying to limit all my projects to using yarn that I already have in my stash. I had no choice but to do so during the pandemic and found that it was an interesting challenge that often took me to unexpected places. It had me spinning all the wool that had been stashed away in my closet as well as learning to spin cotton. It’s been quite easy so far and I am trying to continue in this way. My projects are slow ones which means that my yarn goes a long way in terms of time. I made sure not to bring back any yarn on my last two visits to Australia but I did bring back some dyes and a pin loom.

The pin loom has kept me happily busy using up odds and ends of wool yarn that I have accumulated from the finishing techniques workshops that I sometimes teach. I guess I’ll sew these squares together to make a lap blanket for my eventual return to Australia and my new cold-ish home in the Blue Mountains. But what has made the pin-loom weaving all the more interesting is the chance it has given me to experiment with a little warp-and-weft ikat. That’s been fun.

So far, my ikat projects have all been about warp ikat. The fabrics have been warp faced with the weft threads completely hidden. I wrapped resist material only around the warp threads.

One of my warp ikat projects.

Warp-and-weft ikat, on the other hand, requires a balanced fabric in which both warp and weft threads are exposed. The pin loom gives me that. I was able to apply wrappings to some of the threads that run warp-wise as well as weft-wise. Where they intersect, you get an area of solid color from which extend finger-like sections of just weft ikat and just warp ikat. I’m doing this just for fun…just for something different, as well as for a chance to try out some of the new dye colors I had brought back with me from Australia.

It’s been a fast and low-risk way to play with warp-and-weft ikat. Not much yarn will be wasted if it all goes wrong. My favorite of the three ikat squares above is the one in the middle. The “fingers” that extend from the solid light square are just that little bit more out of alignment and I like the way that looks.

While I sit and weave these little squares, I ponder what my next backstrap loom project will be. When I took out the bag of grey mill-spun wool singles that I had bought from the farmer in California, within I re-discovered the piece that you see below that I had woven way back in something like 2004. It’s woven from my own handspun llama yarn and used to be part of a shoulder bag. The cotton base for the shoulder bag onto which I had sewn this llama-yarn band eventually got worn and shabby. I cut off the llama band and threw away the cotton cloth thinking that I could easily re-use the band. It still looks as good as new! And, besides, it’s handspun and some of the first I had ever done…I couldn’t discard it.

And so I am thinking that my pin loom might be getting its own handwoven pouch. I’ll flank the llama band with the singles wool in plain weave and use some sewn finishing techniques to decorate it. I’ll need to line it so that the loom’s pins don’t get caught in the weave.

Which brings me to talk about lining. I finally got around to making a couple of stitched shibori experiments. Being an absolute beginner at this, I wasn’t expecting much from these initial efforts. For that reason, I thought that the finished cloth would make good lining fabric. It would give me some practice in basic techniques as well as something useful which will be largely hidden away if it turns out to be hideous. It’s been a lot of fun. I really enjoy the part where I can sit quietly and stitch.

Stitching the second attempt. I am just stitching on a single layer for now and haven’t yet started to explore folds. Once the simple running stitches are in place, the threads are pulled tightly so that the fabric puckers. This creates areas of resist when the cloth is dyed.

That’s the first experiment and one of my ikat pouches. These little purses and pouches are the kinds of thing that I would like to line with this cloth. Of course, my technique needs a lot of work but even so, after having completed this first piece, I don’t think that it’s possible to create anything truly hideous even with clumsy beginner attempts. It all looks pretty nice to me.

This is what it looks like when the threads are pulled and the cloth is ready to go into the dye bath.

Of course, traditional shibori artisans use indigo dye and there’s a beautiful video that I shared on my personal Facebook account of a Chinese gentleman taking all the steps to harvest the indigo leaves and prepare the dye bath before stitching and immersing the cloth. Unfortunately, I can’t seem to find it on Youtube to share here. I am just using cotton dye made in Brazil that I buy from my LYS. It gives a very pretty blue.

This is the second attempt which is a sampler of different shapes. It will be ironed eventually but I quite like the crinkly look the cloth has when the stitching is first removed.

I might use this piece to line this tool bag that I made about twelve years ago. It has traveled all over the place with me and is nowhere near as bright and clean now as it is in this picture!

I cut a long strip of cloth that I had woven into two pieces and joined them to make this zippered tool bag

You can see the Van Dyke stitch that I used to cover the join. My Vietnamese backstrap loom teachers used this same stitch to cover theirs. Below, you can see how it looks after twelve years of laundering and heavy use! The blue Anne yarn bled and toned the whole thing down and the green has faded a lot. I quite like this more subdued and weathered look….like a favorite pair of faded denim jeans. Now it will get a pretty lining. It will make me happy every time I look inside and see the shibori cloth. This bag is constantly by my side as I sit at my backstrap loom. It holds swords, pick-up sticks, scissors, small shuttles, measuring tape, elastic bands, sewing needles, seam ripper, sticky tape etc etc

As for upcoming projects on my backstrap loom…while looking around online, I have found inspiration in the form of certain color combinations that I just can’t seem to get out of my mind. The problem is that I don’t have the colors in the right weights of yarn to carry out any kind of plan. So, some of my time is being spent at the dye pot trying to get something that will match my expectations. I’ll be pleased when I have finally settled on a project and am back seated at my backstrap loom. In the meantime, there are pin loom squares, a woven pin loom case (woven on my backstrap loom), stitching and dyeing to keep me creatively occupied.