Backstrap Weaving

It’s been a long time since I last sat down to write a post. There’s been a lot going on and it’s been a bit overwhelming!

First of all, I sold my little one-bedroom apartment. I’d spent a large part of this year doing repairs and painting it, then slowly either selling or giving away my belongings. One of the last things to go was my backstrap weaving station, that is, the bed base to which I would attach my backstrap loom. It was quite sad cutting the straps off the base and dismantling the bed at which I’d sat and happily woven all these years and a little distressing not knowing when next I’d be able to sit at my loom again.

But that didn’t last long. I was soon occupied with other creative pursuits. In my last post I wrote about the short workshop I’d taken with an Ayoreo artisan learning about the looped stitch worked in plant fiber called garabatá that she uses to create the shoulder bags that both the men and women in this indigenous group carry about with them on a daily basis. The bags are almost a part of their clothing. They never seem to be without one.

My experience in the workshop hadn’t been as productive as I had hoped and while I’d finished it with a much greater amount of admiration for the work, I was also left quite disappointed in the limited amount we had been able to cover in that short time. I had been searching for an Ayoreo teacher for years and had actually given up on ever finding anyone who would be willing to take me on as a student. It seemed that I would have to content myself with buying examples of the bags to study while trying to replicate the stitch in cotton.

Well….I got lucky….so lucky! I was introduced to another teacher, Rocío, and she’s amazing! She’s not only been teaching me the basic stitch and the various patterning techniques but also has been very generous in telling me about the various clans and the origin of the patterns.

But we still had to work in cotton as Rocío explained that the recent fires (which, thank goodness, have now been finally extinguished) and drought either destroyed or weakened the plants meaning that the artisans haven’t been able to produce good quality thread from the extracted fiber.

I did manage to scavenge a bit of garabatá fiber here and there so that I could start practicing with the real thing. Cotton really doesn’t do the trick. It behaves in a completely different way from the garabatá and in many ways is more difficult to work with. One nice thing about garabatá fiber is that you can join two strands together without having to tie a knot…a method which I have yet to perfect.

My initial projects will be wrist bands. I’d seen an Ayoreo lady at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, NM many years ago wearing several and decided that these would make good learner projects that wouldn’t require huge amounts of thread. It’s always nice to have some kind of finished product rather than just endless samples and the thread was too precious to use only for sampling.

I then started a more complicated pattern from the Dosapay clan which has been stalled until I can find more fiber in these colors.

Rocío tells me that when the piece gets longer, the work is often tied to a bar instead, allowing the artisan to continue to work with the bulk of the piece in their lap. I am nowhere near that point yet!

This next cuff that I made is a two-color example of the Dosapay pattern. It’s hard to appreciate the form of the pattern because I could only fit half of it on the cuff.

As I said before, working with the garabatá fiber is in many ways easier than working in cotton. One disadvantage is the varying girth and stiffness of the handspun thread which can be thin and relatively loosely plied in some parts and therefore quite flexible, only to become much thicker and tightly plied in others.

I dyed some of the fiber black for the third example and used a small version of the Chiqueno pattern so that I could fit the whole thing onto the cuff.

So, there’s been a lot of cuff stuff going on. Rocío told me that there was a chance of perhaps being able to buy a whole ball of spun thread. Her family lives five hours away from us here in the city and maybe they could bring some the next time someone travels in or she travels out.

What happened in the meantime is that someone did come in from the communities bringing a big wad of the raw fiber. I got a call from Rocio asking if I was interested in buying it. I was! It hadn’t been my plan to learn how to spin the fiber but it looks like it’s going to happen! She assured me that this fiber is top quality and will be worth the effort.

I haven’t had a class with Rocío since that purchase. I know from my experiences learning to spin wool and cotton that it’s going to be a long time before I’ll be able to spin anything usable. I will then surely have a greater understanding of how difficult it must be to produce thread of consistent girth and ply. The fiber is rolled along the upper leg to produce thread. I’m envisioning a very sore leg and hand! My upper leg is already riddled with the evidence of having stabbed myself with the needle multiple times while practicing the stitching.

As you can see above, I’ve been weaving as well. Yes, I did manage to get back to my backstrap loom fairly quickly. After selling my apartment, I moved into a fully furnished room still here in the center of Santa Cruz city. It’s in a very vibrant part of the city and just a couple of blocks away from an awesome street market. And hooray, the bed has a wooden base which made setting up a new weaving “studio” very easy! I brought a little piece of the old studio with me…a wool rug woven in the foothill communities 2-3 hours from Santa Cruz city.

I’ve been weaving cuffs…just small projects as I really don’t want to unpack everything in my new home. I have four large wheelie bags packed and ready to go for when I make the final move to Australia and I don’t want to touch anything in those if I can avoid it. I’m just in a transition phase now while I take advantage of the fact that I can study with Rocío.

And who wouldn’t want to stick around during the Santa Cruz summer when those big beautiful mangoes are filling the street markets at a cost of four for $1.50! Those are Guarani-made placemats on the table which are part of the furnishings in this rented room. I’ve settled in so easily here. I can easily live in one room. My little flat in Katoomba in Australia that awaits me will feel huge after this.

The first two cuffs I made from the same warp have button-and-loop closures. The ends have been turned twice and hemmed. The garabatá cuff has a sliding knot closure. This kind of closure is something that I want to play with more as I hope to weave and sell cotton cuffs at local craft markets once I’m back in Australia. I will be needing additional income sources in order to be able to afford to live there and selling at the markets will also be a good way to publicize classes. The sliding knot closure will allow the cuffs to be adjusted to fit different wrists.

I’m back to using the Brazilian-produced Clea cotton that was pretty much all that was available to me before I started traveling to the States and got thoroughly spoiled with all the choices. However, now with the current amigurumi craze here, there are several other options. Clea remains my favorite, though. It’s fine enough to allow hemmed ends that don’t create excessive bulk on the wrist bands.

There are other reasons to stay on here and not jet off back to Australia immediately. One is the opportunity to study with two Guaraní weavers. I spent time with Angela, my first Guaraní teacher many years ago. We never had any formal classes. It was more a case of my visiting her and hanging out watching while she wove. She was always very generous in allowing me to take pictures and video and ask questions. We would come across each other every few years as she made her way back and forth between the city and her Isoseño community sometimes stopping and living here but then suddenly disappearing back to her community. I eventually lost touch with her. My new Guaraní teachers told me that Angela passed away six years ago. Such shocking and sad news.

I will leave that part of my recent activities to another post. I have my very own Guaraní loom now in mini form which I can work on in my room. Of course, I won’t be carting it to Australia and will give it back to my teachers when it comes time to leave. I love its simplicity and particularly like the shaped wedges of wood which are moved within the slot to reduce the increased tension on the warp that results from take-up. It’s such a simple and effective system! Two of the strings hold the cross while warping. The third is the dovetail string which I’ll tell you more about in the next post.

I’ll leave you with this picture of it and tell you all about it and the weaving in my next post, hopefully before Christmas. I’m nicely settled here now and should be able to get back into posting more often.